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From the Chuckwagon
936-328-2594 • Finsfeathersandhorn@yahoo.com Chuck wagon cooking and the men who cooked it. Who were these men? Were they black, white, or Mexican? What kind of background qualified him for such an arduous chore, and one demanding such an array of talents? The cow camp cook, was often referred to as "czar of the chuck wagon" or "tyrant of the pots and pans". What kind of food did trail drivers eat? How was it prepared? What kind of utensils did they use? How was the food stored and preserved for the long treks? The really accurate source of information on the old time cooks is the old timers themselves. The early trail drivers, in their memoirs, told about the different cooks, remembering certain individuals fondly or bitterly. They described the kind of food they had and how the cook prepared it because meals were important to them. Cowboys didn't have a lot to look forward to or comforts, so after a long day in the saddle, supper and the brief hour around the cooks fire were of utmost importance. The chuck wagon cooks were a diversified assortment of older men. Many were ranch raised, but others were what they called tenderfoots. Others were immigrants, green as gourds, serving as cooks north. After the civil war, many were Negroes, newly freed and seeking work. Many were white confederate veterans, bitter and calloused to suffering and killing. Others were family men, desperate to earn some money in order to feed and cloth their families. A few of the cooks were fairly well educated for the times, while others were illiterate. So, it would seem that each cook was an individual in his own right. In no way did cooks confirm to a mold. The Trail Drivers of Texas, published by the University of Oklahoma Press, a treasure trove of genuine little known facts on cooks and the kinds of food the trail drivers ate tells one story about Baylor Johnson. Johnson took on the job of cooking for a trail crew driving a herd of cattle to market in 1869. He knew nothing of cattle, but he'd been, at various times, a butcher, cook and grocery clerk. When writing, he goes into great detail of outfitting his chuck wagon. Although he had yet to see a chuck wagon, he built his to the specifications of one of the cowboys who had been "up the trail" the year before. The wagon box measured 42 inches by 12 feet overall and its sides were 4 feet in height. The chuck box was built 4 feet in height to contain drawers and shelves roomy enough to contain eating implements and cooking utensils for 12 men. It fitted exactly in the rear of the wagon. The door of the chuck box was hinged and could be lowered, resting on a folding leg, it served as a work table. Another compartment, called a "boot" also had a hinged door. It hung below the chuck box and contained two dutch ovens, a kettle, cast iron skillet, a coffee boiler, fire irons, fire hooks, and a pot hook. Because the boot was so handy, the axe and shovel was also carried here. A side platform was built, toward the front of the left side of the wagon box to hold the water barrel. Two compact boxes were attached to each side of the wagon to hold tools and other necessities that might be needed before the long trip ended. In the front, just below the wagon seat, was another box with a hinged lid called the jockey box. This box contained the wagon iron, used in removing the wheels. Rivets and hammers would be some of the tools carried there, as well as axle grease for the wheels. Five hardwood wagon bows were attached by metal brackets to the wagon box, over these was stretched a waterproof canvas. Johnson stocked this "home away from home" with some luxuries unheard of for a Texas cattle drive. He purchased tins of tea, a keg of pickles, soaps and spices, salt, and baking soda. Of these items, only salt was indispensable. He bought a coffee grinder with a side mount and a good supply of coffee beans. Johnson finished stocking his wagon with commodities sold in bulk, such as dried apples, cereals, and flour. Cornmeal, beans, and sugar were purchased by the barrel. A range cook was commonly called "Cookie" by the cowboys. There were other names for roundup cooks. Some of these included belly robber, grub spoiler, old woman, pot rustler, dough puncher, hash-burner, ol' slick an' greasy, or cossie (short for cocinero). But, whatever they might have called him behind his back, he often was called Mister to his face. Certainly this was always done in a respectful manner. If there was an uncrowned king, it was the old time roundup cook. He had to be good to qualify as a wagon cook. He also had to be resourceful, versatile and talented in a dozen different trades. Father confessor, banker, doctor (for both man and beast) barber, tailor, launder man, butcher, teamster and arbiter. Those sum up some of the range cook's duties. He had to be an expert at scrounging and improvising when the chuck ran low. He could make do as long as he had coffee and flour. The mainstay of a range diet was beef. That was always on hand. All meals were built around beef, with variations depending on the skill of the cook. The old timer cooks were very important people and they knew it. He ruled his chuck wagon and cooking area with an iron hand. There were (and still are) unwritten laws no self respecting cowboy would dream of violating. Riding into camp, the cowboys always stayed down wind. There were camp rules of etiquette that only a greenhorn who didn't know better would break. The rule against crowding around the cook's fire for warmth while the cook was at work never was broken. The space between the fire and chuck box was sacrosanct and belonged to the cook alone. Cowboys provided separate warming fires. Nor did a cowboy help himself to a snack or a cup of coffee, until invited to do so by the cook. After finishing a meal, the cowboys scraped their plates clean and put them in a tub provided by the cook. This receptacle was called the wrecking barrel. No horses were tethered there or hobbled near the chuck wagon. The cowboys snaked in wood for the cook and helped hitch the team and load the wagon when breaking camp. Keeping the cook happy paid off in wonderful dividends. Although not a gourmet, the cowboy liked good food. Whether a roundup was a success or failure depended on the skill of the cook. Dust and flies, scorching sun, or freezing wind, cantankerous mules, a lazy horse wrangler, burned thumb, all could turn a cook into an antisocial cowboy hater, wife beater, and dog kicker, dishing out meals under an atmosphere as gloomy as a wake. These adjectives may have applied to some, but it seems that cowboy cooks came in a wide range of personalities and temperaments. This is a brief summary of the chuck wagon cook and the many duties and responsibilities he performed. Hope you enjoyed it. Until next time. This month's recipes will deal with breads. They are quick and easy and very good! Mix all dry ingredients in a bowl. Add shortening and work with hands until crumbly. Add milk and mix. Turn out on floured board and knead lightly. Avoid using too much flour. Pinch off a ball of dough large enough to make a 9 inch cake. Pat out with hands until dough is round and flat, about ¼ in thick. Poke a hole in the middle and fry in deep fat that is hot, but not smoking. Turn only once, frying about 1 ½ minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels.
Mix all dry ingredients together. Cut in lard until crumbly. Mix in milk or water until soft dough forms. Turn out on floured surface. Knead lightly. Place in 12" dutch oven. Bake with moderate heat about 20 minutes. 350* for conventional oven.
Mix dry ingredients together. Add water until stiff dough forms. Drop by tablespoonfuls into hot oil and fry on both sides. You can make these as large or small as you wish. Don't deep fry. Use only enough oil to reach about halfway up the sides of your fritter.
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